Monday, January 16, 2012

Glenwood Springs, Colorado

>As soon as R.G. and her brother C.G. spotted the stained-glass spectacle of the Starlight Lodge signage, coupled with the fairy tale facade of its office, they knew their miserable drive was over for the night. (The trip was really gorgeous through the mountains right there, but they'd racked up too many miles that day to appreciate it properly. Plus, it was dark.) When they entered their room to find forest trompe l'oeil wallpaper, Ukrainian folk art, and paisley bedspreads, C.G. announced, "Hard work, paid off!" Joy, don't you know.

The Starlight is adorably weird, as you can sort of see from R.G.'s photos. (R.G.'s camera phone is inadequate to indoor light.) Glenwood Springs is also a find. A couple blocks from the lodge (technically a motel but indeed situated in lovely Alpine mountains) are ancient Indian vapor caves, in which R.G and C.G. sweated the next morning. You walk in through a spa, descend into crazy cavernous caves with multiple rooms, pick a slab of rock on which to recline, and steam yourself into bliss. Then you shower and sit in an ugly solarium until you're ready to either do it again or embrace your day. Despite their good accommodation luck, R.G. and C.G. let the driving get to them and had a blow-out fight before entering the caves, and, quick as you like, those caves melted their animosity right out of them.

Starlight Lodge, 121 West 6th Street, Glenwood Springs, CO,(970) 945-8591, $50 for a double; dog free with promise of good behavior. TV, coffee maker, no internet. Yampah Spa and Salon,


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