Cuernavaca, Mexico

In May of '05, R.G. had to go to Cuernavaca to do research for a dissertation chapter she's writing on Under the Volcano. Hence, she felt behooved to stay in Bajo el Volcan, the hotel converted from Malcolm Lowry's home and setting of Under the Volcano. Because the staff was so absurdly nice, R.G. feels somewhat uncomfortable dissing the place. But the over-renovation was tragic, and the price was a whopping $95 or something. R.G. cannot recommend it.

In contrast, for $30 she could have stayed at the Hotel Juarez, 19 Netzahualcoyotl, ph. 777-314-0219. She marched in snapping photos, and no one blinked an eye. That's the kind of nonservice R.G. appreciates. She doesn't like staff watching her every move. Anyway, unlike many shabby chic hotels, Hotel Juarez has made a half-assed effort to decorate their rooms and the results are commendable. Each room is different. Of the open rooms on the second floor, this one was R.G.'s favorite. And as you can see, the Hotel Juarez also has this low-rent pool! Pools of any caliber are very unusual in this kind of old hotel. R.G. can't imagine what would take her back to Cuernavaca--the town, while pretty, features hordes of yahoos--but if something did, she would stay here.